Divido

June 2008

JASON Jujnovich is quite simply astounding. He's one of a select breed of young owner chefs in Perth who's getting it right.

His melt in the mouth food has been making quite an impact in the up and coming Mt Hawthorn precinct since he opened about three-and-a-half years ago.

The signs are all there on entering the cleverly disguised, dimly lit eatery which focuses inwards with leather banquettes, textured user friendly table covers and clever artwork on the walls.

To spot Clint Nolan and Despina Tanner two other highly respected chefs around town savouring a huge, glistening veal shin and a duck on a night off was a hugely positive start. More good indications came from the confidently put together wine list, which lists some jaw dropping numbers under the headings of "Something recognisable" and "Weird and different".

Add to that the scuttlebutt from Jujnovich’s suppliers about his high standards and the expectations are again raised. They were more than adequately met with what he sent out from his open kitchen where he cruises between stove and bench. It was the stuff that will see him as a most likely contender for the throne of supremos Neal Jackson and David Coomer when they eventually throw in their ladles.

With a knowledgeable wine waiter, Slav Malecki, who gives the level of service you’d find in a European five star hotel, the heart is starting to sing.

Malecki happily replaced our Spanish Dehesa Gago Tempranillo ($52) with the more expensive Vina Albali Gran Reserva when we queried whether it was corked. It was a line ball call, but he did the honours anyway.

And now for the food. The menu was brief. Another tick in the right box. And it was enticing to the point of indecision.

A twice cooked chicken broth ($17) was seemingly straightforward. Ah, but it was the depth in the stock that made it so memorable. The same goes for the wood roasted mushrooms. Not only did it look like a still life painting with some olive oil kissed radicchio and roasted walnuts accenting a fan of thinly sliced apple the flavour combination of goat’s cheese, the crunch of bruschetta and the earthy mushroom made this modest one a star of the night.

Just as stellar was the veal shin special ($34) and the wood roasted, corn fed duck ($36) for half a duck with shiny smooth polenta and porcini sauce. There was just one complaint no bread with which to soak up the sauce.

After trying the caramelised lemon tart, I’m advising prospective diners to save some room for dessert. Can you even begin to imagine the tartness of curd made with fresh lemons, a shortcrust pastry, a daub of cream and the brittle burnt topping of caramel? It was brulee meets the old standard citron tart with a definite new take.

And that sums up the whole approach at Divido. Simply astounding.