Divido

July 2005

Divido is Italian for divide, or share. If you order the wood-roasted pork belly dish at this stimulating new restaurant, be prepared to do this, because your dining companions will be drooling over your plate.

It is the standout dish on the pizza-based Italian menu of this 65-seater, which promises to extend the vibrancy of Oxford Street, Leederville, into Scarborough Beach Road, Mount Hawthorn.

Judging by the number of groovy young things enjoying some innovative toppings on pizza (caramelised pear) straight from the wood-fired oven, its already become a regular midweek hang-out.

That's not surprising given that owners - husband-and-wife team Lindsay and Jan Turner and head chef Jason Jujnovich - set out to create a warm and welcoming environment. Chocolate-brown and clever lighting are complemented by the glowing coals of the centrepiece oven.

The mood continues with some honest, yet stylishly presented creations from Jujnovich, who has an impressive CV after working at London's famed River Café. He has blended his Croatian heritage into the contemporary Italian menu.

The service was impeccable, our waiter kneeling to explain the olives and the waitress giving constant updates.

Normally, I'm a great fan of pizza toppings of a few simple ingredients that meld into a cohesive unit, but was talked into trying the more contemporary Autumn on the menu. This was a very workable mix of caramelised pears, gorgonzola and prosciutto, which was more like the traditional Italian rocket salad on a crisp, airy, white base.

The result was superb, if filling, because there was much more to follow in the way of homemade gnocchi and wood-roasted pork belly.

The delightful thimble-sized pieces of gnocchi 'dumplings' in a pumpkin sauce with ricotta, walnuts and shaved parmesan were free of any stodgy feel.

Although full, I wasn't going to let the husband get away with having all that wood-roasted pork belly to himself. The chunk that he begrudgingly delivered to my plate was a mouthful of absolute perfection- crisp on the outside, tender on the inside and redolent of the anise flavour of fennel seed. This was one dish to linger over with a glass of merlot.

Sadly, after that lot there was no room for caramel pannacotta or muscato tiramisu. But as a good friend of mine says, you always have to leave something to come back to. And that we will.